One of my best-kept secrets to achieving fuller lips without filler? A swipe of a good lip plumper. The reveal surprises some and provokes full-on protest in others. “But you have big lips!” the sceptics say. The sceptics haven’t seen me without lip plumper. You see, the best lip plumpers I have tried not only noticeably augment my pout, they smooth creases, boost hydration and deliver a lasting flush with juicy shine. My lip combo is incomplete without them.
How do lip plumpers work?
As it turns out, I’m not imagining these results. “Cosmetic lip-plumping products traditionally work by including mildly irritating ingredients to dilate the tiny blood vessels of the lips, causing a temporary swelling effect,” says Amy Koberling, dermatology PA and Bubble skincare expert. “These cause the cooling or sometimes tingling sensation experienced after application,” she adds, explaining that they can also make lips appear pinker by increasing blood flow. Of course, they’re not miracle workers – I’ve found the effects are significant, but will only last during the hours you have the plumper in question on. But as non-invasive methods go, lip plumpers are a great way to add extra volume to your pout.
“With its unrivalled wide wand, hydrating formula and comfortable (but maximising) tingle, CT’s new plumping gloss has knocked my former favourites off the top spot.” – Tracy Achonwa, beauty writer
Charlotte Tilbury
Pillowtalk Big Lip Plumpgasm
Tracy tests Plumpgasm in Fair/Medium.
Sierra Matthews, a high-profile make-up artist and former right-hand to Mario Dedivanovic, concurs. “I love using a lip plumper when a client wants more of a volumised look on the lips – they’re a super easy way to enhance lips of all shapes and sizes.” She’s used them in her artistry across major Makeup By Mario campaigns, MET Galas and red-carpet events. “My ride-or-die plumpers for years now are the Dior Addict Lip Maximizer and the Sephora Collection: Outrageous Plumping Lip Gloss. I always have one of those in my purse and make-up kit.”
Too Faced Lip Injection Maximum Plump
What to look for in an effective lip plumper
The key to finding a lip plumper that actually plumps your lips? It’s all in the ingredients list. According to Amy, “cinnamon, menthol and capsicum are known to give that vasodilatory effect that increases swelling and red pigmentation.” Sierra favours formulas that include hyaluronic acid, as these create a plump surface appearance by deeply hydrating the lips. “While long-lasting plumping effects are unlikely from topical products, more recently the INCI lists of lip plumpers are including ingredients like peptides, hyaluronic acid and ceramides, which may help with long-term skin health of the lips,” Amy adds.
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The best lip plumpers at a glance:
- Best lip plumper that actually works: Too Faced Lip Injection Maximum Plump, £26
- Best for plumping, lip care and colour: Charlotte Tilbury Pillowtalk Big Lip Plumpgasm, £27
- Best affordable lip plumper: Sephora Collection Outrageous Plumping Lip Gloss,
- Best tinted lip plumping gloss: Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Heat Lip Luminizer & Plumper, £22
- Best lip plumper without a tingle: 111Skin Meso Infusion Lip Duo, £42
- Best lip plumper for fine lines: StriVectin Double Fix™ for Lips Plumping & Vertical Line Treatment, £29.50
- Best plumping gloss with lip care ingredients: Gucci Gloss à Lèvres Plumping Lip Gloss, £33
More professional make-up artist tips for a fuller pout
Lip-plumping glosses will get you a good way towards a plumper pout, but there are other tricks worth knowing to create the illusion of fuller lips. “Don’t skip lip prep,” Sierra says. She uses a generous amount of lip balm – Blistex Lip Medex, to be exact – as the first skincare step on clients, noting that lips become super plump by the time she’s ready to apply coloured lip products.
“Lip liner and a high shine gloss” are indispensable when it comes to exaggerating size, and a trick of the trade is overlining the cupid’s bow with a natural shade (Morphe’s Sweet Tea is a personal favourite) to enhance the smile. Another of Sierra’s pro hacks can be found in everyone’s make-up bag: bronzer. “If you’re skipping the lip liner and it’s a lip balm kind of day, use your bronzer or contour underneath your bottom lip. Thoroughly blend it in, and this will give the appearance of a bigger lip without any product on them!”
Morphe Sweet Tea Nude Lip Liner
Below, the best lip plumpers and plumping glosses to buy in 2024, as tried and tested by Vogue beauty editors.
