In Cheap Tricks, we’ll help you make the most out of everyday supermarket staples. Next up: How to make instant mashed potatoes better—this instant!
My latest haiku:
Mashed potatoes,
I love you so much it hurts.
(But I have no time.)
Every week I lug home a big ol’ bag of russet potatoes with the Very Good intentions of mashing them into creamy oblivion and covering a huge pile with a ladleful of stew and a dollop of sour cream. Rarely does that actually happen—do yooouuuu want to spend an hour at the end of your workday peeling and scrubbing spuds?—and what’s left is a sack of scary-looking sprouted potato children that I’m sure are plotting to poison me while I sleep.
On busy nights, when I know mash from scratch isn’t realistic, I’ve been turning to instant mashed potatoes—also known as instant potato flakes or mashed potato flakes—instead. They’re lightning fast to make (seriously, the prep time is like five minutes); super affordable (2 oz., which is about three servings, costs around 72 cents); and, with a couple of nifty tricks, you’ll barely know they were born from a packet.
When I called my whole-foods-only mother to alert her of this culinary update, I could hear the gears grinding in her head: What’s wrong with real potatoes?! I, like Ma, had always assumed those little baggies contained none of the actual vegetable they were masquerading as. (In our defense, that potato dust looks a heck-load similar to fish food.) But we were both wrong. As it turns out, I told her, instant potatoes are just potatoes that have been cooked, mashed, and then dehydrated—leaving you with crystallized, powdery flakes that you only need to rehydrate with hot liquid before serving. Seemingly convinced, Mom then asked: “Okay, but how do the potatoes taste?” My answer: That depends on what you do with them.
Here’s how to make instant mashed potatoes taste really good:
Idahoan’s classic mix was the best instant mash I tried. Still, my control batch, when prepared according to the directions on the packet—with hot water, salt, and margarine or butter—was lackluster. Gummy and a little bland, with a sort of musty, mothball flavor profile that just wouldn’t quit. But after experimenting with a solid rotation of mix-ins (cream cheese, chives, milk, chicken broth, garlic powder, miso, Parmesan, and more), I finally landed on two winning combos that’ll make any mashed tater shine.
1. Beurre blanc instant mashed potatoes
Bright, creamy, aromatic, and flecked with wine-soaked shallots, this is the perfect side dish to a classic roast chicken. The game changers in this recipe are dry white wine and peppy lemon juice, which lend some much needed acidic brightness; a smattering of fresh herbs and shallots for added complexity; and butter, for, well, butteriness.
Start by making the butter sauce: In a small saucepan or skillet, simmer ½ cup white wine (the cheap stuff is fine!) with 1 finely diced shallot or 1 Tbsp. dried onion flakes until only 2 Tbsp. of liquid remain. Add 6 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, stirring constantly until a glaze-like texture forms. Throw in 2 Tbsp. finely chopped tarragon or oregano and simmer for a few more minutes until the butter smells fragrant. Stir in the juice from ¼ lemon and remove the pan from the stove. At this point, the sauce should be glossy enough to coat a spoon but not hollandaise-level-thick.
